The Shadow of Katrina: Musings on the Eve of DestructionBy the time we wake up tomorrow morning, New Orleans as we have known it will likely be gone. Say your goodbyes tonight. The city is emptying. Under mandatory evacuation, the city has been militarized. Armageddon bears down upon this precious city. It has withstood everything until now. We shall see what remains by day after tomorrow.
Barring a miracle of biblical proportions, the Category 5 hurricane has New Orleans directly in its path. There appear to be no forces at work which can alter its path. Doomsday has arrived.
Okay, cliches aside... My dear friend, Brad, sent me emails all last week. He was concerned for us over here in the Big Bend of Florida, inviting us to feel his loving support as we contemplated the exhausting work of hurricane preparations and evacuation. Alas, yesterday morning, I awoke to a phone call from Brad, fumbling for the right words to ask for similar refuge here with us. Before he completed his request, I said, "The answer is yes." Yes, come now. Drop everything and come now. The interstates are already crowded with evacuees. The Panhandle is already running out of gas. Sooner is better than later. Got a cat? Bring him. Got some elders you're concerned about? Bring them. Discussion of the purchase of his first-ever cell phone and how to stay in touch through the oncoming tumult.
Brad said he had some more hours of work to do before he could leave. Boarding up houses that might blow away or float away. Natural human instinct to do so. Figuring out which, of the millions of papers we all generate and store, to pack. Convincing elders to get into the car. I understand, I said. But come.
He drove instead to Baton Rouge. The roads east were already too crowded. Maybe he'll come after the storm, if he can't go home again.
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Calling my other New Orleans friends, David and Vera, at 10:00 p.m. (their time) last night, I reached only their voice mail. Come now, I say. We'll fit you in. And fretting because I know David well enough to know he'll want to make a last stand there, or go down trying. I received an early-morning email today explaining patiently that they'll be boarding up and hunkering down. Okay, I think. At least I don't have to wonder what they'll be doing. I don't like it, but I do feel a sense of certainty in their decision. They have two yachts in Lake Pontchartrain, a new home in Mid-City, a vast collection of papers and records.
But at 10:30 a.m., my time, I watch their mayor and then their governor at a press conference. They say that the 175 m.p.h. sustained winds, with gusts of 190, will take out the levy system. The surge will come. Building will fly apart. The Superdome will become a shelter of last resort for the elderly and sick who cannot evacuate.
I call Vera and ask if they are still staying put. No, she says. They've decided to board up and run, but it will be hours before they're ready. They do not know where they will go. Just away, wherever they can.
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I lived in New Orleans for two years in the late 1980s. It was a decade in which Louisiana felt an oil bust. Texas felt it, too, unimaginably now. But Texas began its recovery quickly, while Louisiana lagged behind. In those years, I could have bought a string of large mansions for a song. The yuppies had abandoned them, along with the city and its depressed economy. When I moved from Tallahassee to the Big Easy, U-Haul gave me an incredible deal. Two years later, when I wanted to move back to Florida, I found I could not afford a trailer. They gave deals only in one direction because they needed to get the trailers back to New Orleans and all the traffic was running the other way.
When I moved there, I was really quite clueless about almost everything about the city. It seemed like a time warp, a big city stuck in the late '50s with a depression like the '30s. Although liberal and relaxed around issues like parades and partying, it was quite conservative and unenlightened about the progressive issues I was familiar with from my life in Florida. And Florida has never been all that progressive itself.
I made a good living there for awhile. I plied my trade as a graphic designer/art director and worked in a printing house. But then the city spit me out. My son was diagnosed with a neuro disorder. I lost my job in a major downsizing event. And my relationship with my then-partner failed to sustain me. I moved back to Florida and experienced the roughest years of my life.
I remember being told that I would miss New Orleans if I left. It took years for this to be so. When I finally began to return for short visits to do business, I got to experience the city and its culture from a much more satisfying perspective. And it was then that I finally fell in love with New Orleans.
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And so it is strange, tonight, to try to wrap my mind around what Katrina probably holds for dear, dear New Orleans. The expected devastation will be awesome. There could be a million homeless people by tomorrow. The ground could be covered in a mixture of unimaginable toxins and filfth. The historic pumping stations -- which even the Dutch come to study -- could be anihilated and rendered useless for many months. Buildings which have seen almost 300 years of history could be twisted off of their foundations. They've certainly not been made stronger by the Foromosan termite, the dry rot, the rusting nails, the humidity.
So much care has gone into preserving the French Quarter. It is a living city, and not merely a museum; not merely a gentrification project in which only yuppies and lawyers can reside. When the area now called New Orleans was only swamp, the earliest settlements were placed on the highest and driest spots. This is true of the Quarter. But height in that region is only a relative thing. They're predicting a possible 28-foot surge. I can't imagine that the Quarter -- nor the levies along the riverfront, for that matter -- can hold back the tsunami that will rush in when the eyewall comes ashore.
The Mississippi River is mostly a north/south river that snakes and oxbows. It's been interfered with and channeled until it behaves unlike itself. They say there are over 100 known carcinogens in the river, from all the industry upstream. In the days before steam engines, barges were floated down river to the city, where the produce was loaded onto sailing ships. The barges were made of some of north America's finest woods. These barges provided only one-way trips down to the city. The wood was recycled into the bones of the growing city.
To the western edge of New Orleans proper, in a place known as Riverbend, at Carrollton, the Mississippi stops its mostly southward course and makes a 90-degree turn to the east. And through the city, the river flows in a west-to-east direction. Just east of the French Quarter, at a point of land known as Tangiers, the river again bends abruptly to the south and flows many miles to the Gulf of Mexico.
Brad said he took a Louisiana geography course recently and learned how quickly dry land in the southernmost region of the state is disappearing. To the rate of a football field every 30 minutes. At this rate, the loss of land must be visible to our eyes. And as this land becomes water, it also provides less and less protection against storms from the Gulf. Katrina will surely race across this flat and watery world to the front door of New Orleans.
Mary Landrieu calls this area the "energy coast," in her effort to remind of us her state's current worth to the nation. It is an advance call for emergency funds from the larger society. And this is to the good. Millions of working class people live and work in this region, which has given us an incredibly overlaid culture of food and music. They work the oil rigs, fish the waters.
But it is also a region that has played its own role in the birth of our nation. New Orleans won the battle for port supremacy over Apalachicola and provided the Gulf coast with a then-protected port that today brings in a large volume of gas and oil as well as coffee and other products from around the world.
But it is also a dream region. Years ago, I flew over this region in a light airplane. From the air over Louisiana's famous swamps, I saw brown grasses with large spirals of water spinning across the plain. Spirals everywhere, as if water could only organize itself into this most powerful of metaphysical symbols. Mother Earth. Dream mother.
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The mighty Mississippi itself is unbearably strong. I'm amazed that the French and Spanish could sail their vessels against its current, once they found the true mouth of the river. In the river lies a long, narrow island known as Vella-Ashby Island. Its southern tip played host to the first French explorers to find their way into the river from the Gulf. They made it up that far, set up anchorage for their vessel, and camped on dry land. Only that night did they realize that it was Mardi Gras, and they celebrated this French/paganistic/Christian holiday in the middle of the river. Although Mobile claims its Mardi Gras as the first in the New World, this forgotten story is the true story of the first Mardi Gras in North America. And it was celebrated -- properly enough -- in Lousiana, in the Mississippi.
I know all of these bits and pieces of New Orleans history. One doesn't live there without learning a lot of bits about the place. The city is so real to me -- all of the intimate spaces there -- that I cannot imagine it gone. It cannot be put back in order. Its sweetness and un-selfconciousness will melt away like a dream, upon awakening. I fear that, like the oyster houses in East Point, near Apalachicola, once the surge has washed away the authentic bits, only corporate representations will rush to fill in the gaps they have left.
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One more thing... Today in my studio, Harry Shearer's "Le Show" focused for awhile on Katrina and New Orleans. Up until that moment, I had been caught up only in the pragmatics of whether my friends would leave New Orleans safely. But when I heard Randy Newman singing "Evangeline." I fell apart. Oh yeah... that's what it's about. A mournful lament about the loss of a sweet, sweet little historical zone by a natural event we cannot negotiate with. "Six feet of water in the streets of Evangeline... they're trying to wash us away..."